Canteens offer a real community flavor

A chef showcases two spring specialties — scrambled eggs with Chinese toon at 10 yuan ($1.45) and stir-fried malantou (Indian aster) at 8 yuan — at the Caoyang Happiness Canteen in Shanghai on Friday. GAO ERQIANG/CHINA DAILY

In Shanghai's winding alleys, the fragrant aromas of fresh Chinese toon and bamboo shoots signal the arrival of spring. These seasonal delicacies are now taking center stage not just in high-end restaurants, but in community canteens across the city.

At the Xianghe community canteen in Changning district, Vincent Vesvres, a French national working in Shanghai, bit into a dish of bamboo shoots. "Amazing," he exclaimed.

As well as the tasty Shanghai cuisine, Vesvres added that he was drawn to the family-like atmosphere of the canteen, where local elders gather.

"This is exactly the kind of place that attracts me, where people share meals together and you truly feel part of a community. I genuinely feel like I'm experiencing life as a local in China," he said.

"I'd never heard of community canteens before. We don't have anything like them in France. The fact that you can enjoy local, delicious and affordable food is such a gem," Vesvres added.

This reflects the original purpose of community canteens, which, supported by local government, offer good food at preferential prices for nearby residents who don't have time or are unable to cook at home.

Once perceived merely as dining facilities for the elderly, Shanghai's network of over 500 community canteens now serves as a culinary bridge, connecting local residents — young or old — and an increasing number of international visitors eager for an authentic Shanghai dining experience.

This year, many community canteens have hit the headlines and gone viral around the city for their spring menus.

"Spring is here, so spring vegetables must be on the table," said Shen Lianhua, manager of the Caoyang Happiness Canteen in Putuo district. Her kitchen now processes tens of kilograms of fresh ingredients to prepare seasonal dishes, including stir-friedmalantou(Indian aster) and scrambled eggs with Chinese toon, two of the city's must-try dishes.

Behind a steaming wok, chef Chen Guomin highlighted what is required for these seasonal delicacies. "You must blanch themalantouto remove the bitterness, while keeping the color vibrant," Chen said, demonstrating how to select the tenderest tips of Chinese toon.

"Spring is about preserving the original flavor of the ingredients," he said.

At the Xianghe community canteen, manager Zhou Qin has introduced its spring specialties: scallion oil broad beans,yanduxian(bamboo shoot soup with fresh and pickled streaky pork), mustard greens wontons and spring rolls.

"Our spring rolls evolve the traditional filling by adding shrimp and diced bamboo shoots, creating richer flavors," Zhou said. "Dishes likeyanduxianare especially popular because they use the freshest seasonal ingredients and follow traditional local recipes.

"These canteens carefully cater to their elderly patrons through softer textures, milder flavors and smaller portion options, often offering special discounts," she added.

"I rarely cook at home anymore," said Zhou Yaomin, a 72-year-old regular who visits the canteen in Putuo district at least three times a week. "It's usually about 20 yuan ($2.90) for a full meal after discount."

Delivery rider Xiao Chen tries different community canteens throughout his workday.

"Many canteens offer special set meals for delivery riders, usually with two meat dishes and two vegetable ones for under 20 yuan. It's a proper meal, not just a quick snack on the street. The food is fresh and healthy, and I trust the hygiene," he said.

These community dining spaces have increasingly become culinary destinations for domestic and international tourists. Located near international hotels like the Hilton, the Caoyang Happiness Canteen regularly receives foreign diners.

"Many foreign guests come to try ourxiaolongbao(steamed buns) and egg pancakes. They just love them," said Shen, the canteen's manager.

The flourishing of these canteens aligns with China's nationwide strategy to create 15-minute communities, ensuring essential services, including affordable and nutritious food, are within a short walk for all residents.

Data shows that nearly 80,000 canteens catering specifically to senior citizens have been established nationwide, serving more than 3 million pensioners daily.

They have since evolved beyond merely offering cheap meals, becoming true community hubs by integrating elderly-centric services, cultural activities, daily conveniences and smart technology, serving up a comprehensive social experience.

zhengzheng@chinadaily.com.cn

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